14.02.10
A leather harness — that you would not prerequisite the man underneath to sit next to you in a crowded theater, for all the fidgeting it would take to untangle himself.
Nevertheless, this whip-round marked a cool departure from the stiff military tackle Mr. Neville and Mr. Wainwright are fond of. Instead of greatcoats and cutaway blazers, there were fleecy cover and shearling vests, a fabulous thin gray poncho, trapper gloves and those swell Alpine knits — so good, maybe they should be drawn tired over, instead of under, a suit. It should also be noted that the Rag & Bone women’s aggregation, shown separately but with the same layering theme and similar designs, was their pre-eminent to date.
Runners-up in the competition to pile it on included Robert Geller, who this occasion introduced woolly fur capelets and Fair Isle connect sets for men, and the Loden Dager designers Oliver Helden and Paul Marlow, who wrapped some of their calm suits and pastel sports shirts with draped wrinkle boleros. (They were only slightly effeminate.) Loden Dager had some honest ideas, pairing thin turtlenecks or neckties with a casual shirt in a taste that recalled early John Hughes films, but their button-fly protracted johns looked a little fishy. Mr. Geller’s solicitation was too close to his earlier work (enough with the gangster striped suits), but you could see that he is cogitative more commercially, with washed-out gray jeans, a charcoal wool bomber and a tracker green fishtail parka.
Source: New York Times