19.02.10
In the whip-round he showed Feb. 12, Mr. Wainwright released a mini-show of military greatcoats, camouflage anoraks and, of course, variations on the lawn jacket with its multiple pockets and gusseted cuffs.
He was joined during New York Mode Week , which concluded Thursday, by designers as disparate as Gwen Stefani , Richard Chai, Wayne Lee and Phillip Lim, who injected collections with official olive drab and military trim. Field coats, parkas and anoraks didn’t certainly blanket the runways for fall, a season most notable for crowd in-it-on layering, the lavish use of fur and, at the opposite extreme, pared-down sportswear.
But it didn’t have to. Military influences were already widespread before the latest shows. For much of the last year, interpretations of fight gear have infiltrated the style world, tracing a indented trajectory up from the campus and the concert stadium and onto the rarefied runways of Balmain, Marc Jacobs , Celine and Burberry, then back again into mainstream shops like DKNY and Gap, where stylized versions of the area jacket — this season’s answer to the biker overcoat — are in plentiful supply for spring.
Source: New York Times